So if this was a post in the AITA forum, I think I would come down on ESH. I appreciate my viewpoint may not be popular. To that, let me say that my views would be different if this was 2 years post-d-day rather than 18 years.
I'll start with her, because that's easy. OBVIOUSLY the minimization, defensiveness, lack of empathy and validation. All of it is a problem and antithetical to R, and more importantly, antithetical to a healthy, loving marriage.
But let's also talk about you. Obviously the town you visited is trigger for you. That makes a lot of sense to me. It's a place you associate with the A, and because you don't go there often enough, you have not had the opportunity (even with the passage of time) to reclaim the place as your own (ie. no exposure therapy). I do not fault you for triggering. I don't think that most BS would CHOOSE to trigger. BUT..... that was more than a slightly snide remark. It was a shitty comment that was intended to pick a fight. I know this because I've made that EXACT comment before in a similar situation (more than once, I should add ).
While we can't always expect a BS, even one who is 18 years out, to act perfectly while triggered, unless your spouse has the patience and self-control of a nun (my guess is that you are well aware that she does not), you cannot expect her to come to the table to have a productive, empathetic, understanding conversation with you if you come at her aggressively. Fight or flight is literally an automatic physiological reaction to a stressful stimuli. Just like your aggressive response was normal to the stress you was feeling, so was hers.
My husband and I used to have the same issue. I would get triggered and then start coming at him on the (verbal) attack and he would hear my criticisms and complaints and his lizard brain would kick into high gear and his adrenaline would start and as his brain registered an attack, he immediately become defensive. I would feel unheard and unsupported and my (very valid) feelings would be minimized, which would aggravate my trigger and anger, and he would feel shamed, bewildered, confused, and unjustly attacked. His reaction to my comments would make me upset, and the the argument would escalate and we'd both leave off feeling worse than we started. When we were able to cool off a bit, we'd be able to talk things through, much like it sounds like you did, but that didn't mean that the damage wasn't done. We recognized that it was an issue that was derailing productive communication in the A and worked on addressing it in MC.
"BUT IT WAS HER A THAT CAUSED MY TRIGGER IN THE FIRST PLACE!" I can almost hear you yelling from your screen. Yep. But are you sure she appreciated that in the moment? From your own words, it sounds like you're still thinking about the A more than she is, and you're often not bringing it up when you do. That is a pretty normal dynamic between BS and WS. Its something that used to drive me crazy in R, I felt like the A was ALWAYS on the forefront of my mind, and my husband would only think about it when I brought it up. It meant that when I triggered, he was often entirely oblivious to the fact that that was going on until I said something. Even though he wanted to be supportive of me and empathetic through my triggers, he often had no context for it. It meant that he would feel like my shitty comments were completely unwarranted attacks that were totally out of the blue, sometimes at a time when he felt like we were having a nice time together. I suspect that your wife was still reveling in what she thought was a nice family trip for you both, did not appreciate you were on edge, and found the comment particularly jarring and out of nowhere.
Certainly, in a perfect world, your wife (and my husband) would have enough empathy and awareness and a transfer of vigilance that she would have anticipated that this trip was likely a trigger for you, and been sensitive to your heightened emotions surrounding it. But we don't live in a perfect world, and if there is one thing that I've learned over time in a marriage, it is that if you do not communicate your thoughts, feelings, and expectations to your partner, you are not giving them a chance to meet them, and you are setting yourself up for disappointment. What worked for my husband and I was not having a goal of getting to a point of no longer talking about the A, the goal was to be able to get to a place where the conversations we did have were less explosive so we could reach a place of connection and empathy rather than frustration and further distance. In doing so, it actually created space for my triggers to become moments of connection between the two of us and eventually, probably because I knew I was safe, the frequency of those triggers waned significantly. It took TWO of us to get there.
My guess is that had you responded to her "so we're still doing that huh?" remark, more calmly and with something like, "You're right, that was a shitty thing to say. I'm sorry. I think being in that place, even after all these years, puts me on edge and causes my mind to go back to that time. I appreciate you are not that person anymore.", then she MAY have been able to respond in a way that was less defensive and more empathetic to your feelings. If you're anything like me, when you trigger, the best you can hope for is that your spouse will recognize the hurt you are feeling, acknowledge and apologize for their role in creating that hurt, and provide you with empathy and understanding and perhaps the space to talk about what is going on in your brain, and assure you that its not something you have to worry about anymore.
There is a kind of script for this in the pinned thread "Things Every WS should know" on the Wayward board that provides a bit of a script for the WS in how to handle a BS's triggers when they come. It may sound a little silly (or even artificial) to have a script, but my husband and I found to be incredibly useful for handling these kinds of moments for us. If you and your wife have not read the article recently, I encourage you to do so because the whole thing really is evergreen in its utility, but in short, the part that I am referencing is below (my emphasis added):
HERE’S A GREAT TIP: You will find it’s particularly meaningful to them when they’re obviously feeling low, but they’re locked in silence and aren’t expressing it to you. Just imagine… In their moments of unspoken loneliness or despair, you walk up to them, hug them and say, "I just want you to know how grateful I am that you’re giving me a second chance. Thank you so much. I love you more than ever for this. I’ve been feeling so ashamed of what I did and how much pain I caused you. I want you to know that I’ll never do anything to hurt you like this – ever again. I know I broke your heart and it torments me. I want you to know your heart is safe with me again."
These are beautifully comforting words, particularly when they’re delivered at such a perfect
moment. You can memorize the quote, modify it, or use your own words, whatever is most
comfortable for you. The key is to include, in no particular order, all six of these components:
A statement of gratitude.An expression of your love.
An acknowledgment of your spouse’s pain.
An admission that you caused their pain.
An expression of your sense of shame.
A promise that it will never happen again
Unfaithful spouses I’ve counselled often report that this most welcome surprise is the best thing they did to lift their partner’s spirits – as well as their own.
For me this script ABSOLUTELY worked to diffuse my feelings related to a particular trigger and build connection and togetherness between the two of us in moments that would otherwise feel lonely. I keep calling it a script, which makes it seem artificial, but obviously the words are different every time and are dependent on the circumstances. It became natural over time, and honestly, it's useful for any apology type situation even outside of affair triggers. I'll give you a real life example that my husband texted me on our 5 year antiversary. The context was that we'd both totally forgotten about the antiversary and it occurred to me when I saw the date towards the end of the day while we were both at work. I wasn't particularly triggered in the moment but it felt important I texted him to remind him. His response:
Ugh... f*ck. I'm so sorry honey. I love you so much. How are you feeling? Sometimes I can't believe I did that. I mean, I know I did, I am just ashamed to have caused you that much pain. Thank you so much for sticking with me. I didn't deserve that and I am so, so grateful for you and our family.
It's hard to be mad at that right? He had no idea I wasn't triggered in the moment (and called to make sure when I didn't respond immediately), but his message basically worked to diffuse any worked-up-edness that the significance of that date may have brought. We ended up having a nice night, and I didn't feel the need to mention it again. If I had decided to hold it in and then blown up at him that evening (or the next day) out of nowhere with some passive aggressive dig, I'm sure it would not have gone quite the same way.
I appreciate that all of this working hinges on a WS that is willing to own her own shit and wants to improve the marriage. I don't know your story well enough to know if that's the case. The fact that your wife was researching articles after this incident however suggests to me that she appreciates that there is room for improvement. I encourage you to talk to her about this now CALMLY and tell her you WANT to be able to improve things between the two of you and that you appreciate that there is work for you to do too. If you can both drop the term "victim mindset" I imagine that could help too - no one likes an accusation. Maybe ask her to talk to you about it in MC. I'm going to venture that this style of argumentation between the two of you extends beyond just the A, and that the A is just a pressure point.
Finally, are you really still thinking about the A for hours a day? If so, was this just while you were visiting this trigger city or is it all the time? If it's the latter (and I say this gently), I wonder if maybe it's time for you to head back to IC - it seems like maybe something isn't working.
Best of luck to you gainingclosure, I hope you do.